Zürcher Nachrichten - Iranian pilgrims flood Iraq for first Arbaeen since war

Some stamped on a portrait of US President Donald Trump, others raised their fists or flashed victory signs, as fresh strikes rattled the region, drawing Iraq back into the Middle East war.

Amir, a 55-year-old pick-up driver, has been attending the Arbaeen ceremonies in Iraq for years, but said that this time is different.

"The difference is that we are at war. Now, the United States is attacking us... yet this crowd that you see has left everything behind" to attend, the father-of-three added, at Iraq's al-Zurbatiyah border crossing.

Arbaeen, which means forty in Arabic, marks the 40th day of mourning for the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the grandson of Prophet Mohammed and a founding figure in Shia Islam.

It is one of the world's largest religious gatherings, with millions flocking each year to Iraq to visit the city of Karbala, where Hussein and his brother Abbas are buried.

This year's pilgrimage comes amid a war launched by a US-Israeli attack on Iran on February 28, which has not left Iraq unscathed.

The war erupted only weeks after Iranian authorities cracked down on widespread anti-government protests triggered by the high cost of living in a country enduring harsh US economic sanctions.

Just hours before Amir entered Iraq, US-Saudi strikes killed 20 militants, including five Iranians, across seven Iraqi province, after Riyadh accused pro-Iran armed groups of attacking its territory.

"There is anxiety and fear," Amir said, complaining that the Iranian economy is suffering. "We are standing against them, and we will resist, even if we have to survive on dry bread."

- 'Avenge our leader' -

The bond between Iraq and neighbouring Iran, both Shia-majority countries, runs deep and is shaped in both religion and politics.

Earlier this month, the remains of Khamenei, who was killed in the war's initial strikes, were brought to Karbala and the nearby holy city of Najaf, where huge crowds mourned him as part of a six-day funeral procession that began in Tehran and concluded with his burial in the Iranian city of Mashhad.

Pilgrim Fatemeh Moradi, 52, has been to the Arbaeen at least five times before, but said that this year is for "our martyred leader, on his behalf and on the behalf of all the martyrs".

Moradi lost many relatives during the war, but for her "martyrdom is a sense of pride".

Devoted Shia Muslims take pride in martyrdom, commemorating the Battle of Karbala in 680 where Hussein was killed by Umayyad caliph Yazid.

During Arbaeen, they show their grief, mourning with weeping and wailing in memory of Hussein.

At the Zurbatiyah crossing, large fans sprayed mist to cool the heat as pilgrims passed portraits of Khamenei, his son and successor Mujtaba, and other slain commanders from Iran's so-called "axis of resistance."

Iraqis greeted them with gifts of drinks and food, continuing the tradition of offering refreshments to pilgrims.

Iraqi authorities said Friday that so far around 3.5 million foreign pilgrims have entered Iraq to attend the Arbaeen.

Iranian electrician Hamed Kameli, 39, came all the way from Iran's holy city of Qom to observe the Arbaeen in Karbala, for the first time in seven years.

"Because of the aggression against my country, our presence here is certainly very different from previous years," Kameli said.

"We will never give up our country ... we will avenge our leader," he added.

O.Hofer--NZN